Inveterate road-trippers, we’re always happy to hop in the car for an adventure. We’ve been to all 50 states, including the Sunshine one. But while we’d spent time in southern Florida, we’d never before been to its northwest corner, the Panhandle.
Lured by tales of sugar-sand beaches and clear blue-green waters, last month we drove 12 hours from Durham to Destin, Fla., which is on a barrier island between Pensacola to the west and Panama City to the east.
Like us, the Gulf Coast’s alabaster sand came from North Carolina – just millions of years ago when rounded, white quartz crystal washed down from the Appalachian Mountains.
Even off-season, the descriptions didn’t begin to touch the beauty of Caribbean-like natural wonders that we experienced.
The Resort
Our car climbed a driveway lined with towering palm trees to a massive, stone-paved circle in front of the Henderson Beach Resort. The seven-year-old property was designed in the style of a grand, old-Florida hotel, crafted with soaring wood beams and steep gable rooflines. Smiling bellmen welcomed us.
With more than 200 rooms on 14 acres, the Henderson Beach Resort offers sweeping Gulf views from three distinct configurations: the anchor hotel; vacation rentals of one- and two-bedroom condos; and a charming inn.
We figured the resort - with its combo of relaxation, luxury and recreation - would be an excellent home base to explore the area.
Truth is we never left. We stayed in this idyllic cocoon for six full days. And who could blame us? Read on!
We swam in its multiple pools and lazy rivers; luxuriated in its 10,000-square-foot spa; sipped hot chocolate from the afternoon setup in the lobby; worked out in its well-equipped gym; relished exquisite food and libations in its eateries and bars; checked out recreational equipment from bocce ball to bicycles; strolled the pristine beach; and oohed and ahhed over brilliant sunrises and sunsets from spacious terraces and many other vantage points.
Quick shout-out to Destin, a bustling tourist town (think Myrtle Beach but take the crazy down a notch) that’s chock full of attractions and has 15,000 permanent residents.
Even a short list includes the Destin Harbor Boardwalk; water and adventure parks; dolphin and sunset cruises; diving and snorkeling; oodles of outlets; golfing; fishing (Destin is known as “the world’s luckiest fishing village”); and the 208-acre Henderson Beach State Park, with 6,000 feet of natural coastline, which is adjacent to the resort. (No fee with our room key.)
But, hey, we’ll catch all that on the next visit. And we will return. This time, though, the warm and friendly Henderson Beach Resort was the paradise where we spent all 144 indulgent hours of our dreamy getaway.
The Digs
As the centerpiece, the hotel beautifully blends modern accoutrements with the atmosphere of a grande dame resort. Upon entering the lobby, we faced a wall of walls with panoramas of Henderson Beach State Park. Sunsets were so alluring that we sometimes spotted front-desk clerks rushing out to see them.
Multiple gathering areas with high ceilings create a giant living room. Almost 500 original pieces by local artists hang on the walls. One area displays photos of 1950s beach life in Destin.
Our large, luxe, coastal-chic guest room featured an elegant bathroom and generous balcony.
The newly built one- and two-bedroom condo units, with handsome furnishings, relaxed living rooms, comfy bedrooms and well-appointed kitchens, are a great choice for a family spending a week at the beach. The up-to-date appliances, including a French-door refrigerator, make it easy to put together meals for the whole crew. And there’s a full-size washer and dryer.
The adults-only Henderson Park Inn, just steps from the beach, rocks a romantic vibe. Its architecture is traditional Cape Cod summer-at-the-shore and includes a fire pit and torches that light the night.
Each guest room has floor-to-ceiling windows and a balcony. Every stay comes with extra privileges, including a daily happy hour; beach cruiser bikes; and unlimited access to snacks and nonalcoholic beverages.
The Eats
No matter where we parked ourselves, the food – highlighted by Gulf-to-table catches - was excellent. The eateries included signature restaurant Primrose; clubby tavern Horizons; poolside Sea Level; romantic Beach Walk café; The Rooftop bar; and Sprinkles – a ‘50s-inspired scoop shop and snackery. Although not all six dining options were open off-season, we still drifted from one culinary triumph to the next.
Primrose laid out a breakfast feast that included a bountiful display of smoked salmon and its sidekicks. ‘Nuff said. OK, we’ll say more: berry-topped buttermilk pancakes.
At dinner there one night, we started with handcrafted sushi, a surprising offering ...delightfully so. There’s an actual sushi bar! The fresh Florida roll and the Philadelphia roll wowed us.
Then, we tucked into appetizers of seafood chowder swimming in shrimp and mussels as well as seared jumbo scallops sitting on smoked corn puree and corn succotash.
The flavor bombs continued with our entrees: blackened country grouper alongside seafood jambalaya risotto as well as shrimp (fresh, local) and grits prepared with andouille sausage and tomato gravy.
Horizons, the bar and grill, offers equally delish food, including soups and salads, smoked chicken wings, pizza, and prime rib sandwiches, as well as mesmerizing views of the Gulf.
True to its name, Sprinkles sets out multi-colored sprinkles as DIY ice-cream toppers. Situated next to Poppy’s, the kids’ club, Sprinkles is the perfect spot to grab snacks. But we didn’t sell it short, getting our lattes and even quick breakfasts and lunches there.
Over at the Henderson Beach Inn, the Beach Walk Café provided fine dining overlooking the Gulf of Mexico. We went nuts over smoked local fish as well as an iceberg wedge featuring the famous Maytag blue cheese.
For mains, we savored sesame-crusted ahi tuna steak drizzled with Japanese ponzu sauce as well as grilled corn and asparagus risoto with parmesan cheese and confit cherry tomatoes.
The intimate ambience extends to its VIP Toes in the Sand dining experience, which provides a private table directly on the beach and a dedicated server who presents the repast as the sun sets and stars appear.
The Fun
Afternoon January temps dipped into the 50s and 60s, but who cared: The sun was shining, and the three extravagant pools (one “adult” and two “family” with lazy rivers) were heated to a glorious 84 degrees. We immersed ourselves in outdoor activities on the impeccably kept grounds and took soul-soothing walks on wide ribbons of white sand.
We hoped we were working off those luscious meals we had devoured. To that end, every day we swung by the gym, which was filled with cardiovascular and strength-training equipment. It boasted a mini-fridge packed with cold water and chilled towels.
Those in search of outdoor fun could indulge in badminton, cornhole and other games. Bicycles were available to peddle down the beach or scenic Hwy. 98. Poppy’s Club kept those ages 4 to 11 busy with a range of diversions.
The spa featured a full array of pampering for those wrapped in robes: 11 treatment rooms; a hydrotherapy shower that soothes muscles; a Himalayan salt suite; a whirlpool; a steam room; chill-out lounges; and practitioners who gave us the facial and deep-tissue massage of our lifetimes. Tranquility found.
Almost a week after our arrival at Henderson Beach Resort, we reluctantly stepped back into our car and began the trek to Durham. But first, we made a pit stop at Sprinkles for breakfast egg bites and lattes plus custom-made salads for lunch later in the day.
The woman who had greeted us each morning at Sprinkles put extra care into packing our takeout bag for the road. The employee at the recreation desk stopped in to wish us a safe journey.
It seemed as if we should be hugging everybody goodbye. We’d been there for six days. They felt like family, and it felt like home.
Photos courtesy of The Henderson Beach Resort and The Henderson Park Inn